Helmut Lang
It's Friday today. My boss is working from home. I don't have too much to do. I literally just got a haircut and it's half past ten in the morning. What to do? Explore the world of another of my favourite designers - Helmut Lang.
Lang was born in 1956 (Age 62) in Austria. Lang's parents divorced shortly after his birth and he was sent to live with his grandparents in a small village in the Austrian Alps. As his childhood was removed from outside influence, his relationship with clothing was limited to assisting his grandfather in his workshop resoling tough leather mountain boots and dressing for the harsh winter conditions of the Alps. This would go on to be fundamental to his design philosophy.
By age ten, Lang's mother had passed away and he moved back to Vienna to live with his truck driver father and stepmother. After finishing school in 1974, he worked as a bartender while designing his own pants and T-shirts on the side. When friends began to show interest, he met with a local seamstress and started to reproduce his clothing. Demand quickly rose and by 1977 he established a small bespoke studio in Vienna grounded in a chic minimalism. In 1986, Lang was invited to present his debut collection in Paris which was met with critical acclaim.
His seminal collection in 1998, what was once functional, like velcro, bulletproof vests and cummerbunds became strictly ornamental.
While the bulletproof vest isn't exactly streetwear ready, it's an interesting concept turning something utilitarian into something ornamental and who doesn't like the post-military aesthetic? Alternatively the painter denim adds a nice designer touch reminiscent of the 90s and even today can go for quite a bit of dough. Although i love these on the catwalk, not so much on the streetwalk. I love the minimalism though.
For 1999, he showed exactly the opposite, with bondage straps on the inside of parkas - fetish gear that provided additional support and wearability.
I actually love this collection. The peak of utilitarian post-military minimalism. I actually own this exact jacket in black but obviously don't pull off the proportions as well as the model does here. I love the length and the contrast of the bondage leg strap against the white denim, the sturdiness of the material and the fur on the collar, exquisite!
From 1998, Lang moved to New York and added another brand "Helmut Lang Jeans'. Prada then bought Helmut Lang and proceeded to do away with Helmut Lang Jeans under the guise that it was far too commercial and thus, unrefined although it made up over 50% of sales.
It turned to shit from here. In his wake, an entire generation of designers sprouted: Craig Green, Raf Simons, Rick Owens and Yang Li - clearly all disciples of Lang.
Helmut Lang was the pioneer in utilitarian minimalism and potentially one of the best designers of his era. I have a great appreciation, especially for his Seance de Travail work in 1999 and treasure my astro parka greatly.
Lang was born in 1956 (Age 62) in Austria. Lang's parents divorced shortly after his birth and he was sent to live with his grandparents in a small village in the Austrian Alps. As his childhood was removed from outside influence, his relationship with clothing was limited to assisting his grandfather in his workshop resoling tough leather mountain boots and dressing for the harsh winter conditions of the Alps. This would go on to be fundamental to his design philosophy.
By age ten, Lang's mother had passed away and he moved back to Vienna to live with his truck driver father and stepmother. After finishing school in 1974, he worked as a bartender while designing his own pants and T-shirts on the side. When friends began to show interest, he met with a local seamstress and started to reproduce his clothing. Demand quickly rose and by 1977 he established a small bespoke studio in Vienna grounded in a chic minimalism. In 1986, Lang was invited to present his debut collection in Paris which was met with critical acclaim.
His seminal collection in 1998, what was once functional, like velcro, bulletproof vests and cummerbunds became strictly ornamental.
While the bulletproof vest isn't exactly streetwear ready, it's an interesting concept turning something utilitarian into something ornamental and who doesn't like the post-military aesthetic? Alternatively the painter denim adds a nice designer touch reminiscent of the 90s and even today can go for quite a bit of dough. Although i love these on the catwalk, not so much on the streetwalk. I love the minimalism though.
For 1999, he showed exactly the opposite, with bondage straps on the inside of parkas - fetish gear that provided additional support and wearability.
I actually love this collection. The peak of utilitarian post-military minimalism. I actually own this exact jacket in black but obviously don't pull off the proportions as well as the model does here. I love the length and the contrast of the bondage leg strap against the white denim, the sturdiness of the material and the fur on the collar, exquisite!
From 1998, Lang moved to New York and added another brand "Helmut Lang Jeans'. Prada then bought Helmut Lang and proceeded to do away with Helmut Lang Jeans under the guise that it was far too commercial and thus, unrefined although it made up over 50% of sales.
It turned to shit from here. In his wake, an entire generation of designers sprouted: Craig Green, Raf Simons, Rick Owens and Yang Li - clearly all disciples of Lang.
Helmut Lang was the pioneer in utilitarian minimalism and potentially one of the best designers of his era. I have a great appreciation, especially for his Seance de Travail work in 1999 and treasure my astro parka greatly.
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