Raf Simons

I'm very interested in fashion. I don't like using the word because it has so many bad connotations attached to it, but in a nutshell - it's what i'm interested in. I'm not just interested in how something looks but why it looks the way it does and how it got to that point.

I'm interested in the inspirations behind its design and the techniques involved in turning something from concept to concrete.

From the iceberg knowledge that i have of fashion at the moment, so far i've discovered that Raf Simons is my favourite designer. He's responsible for innovating a lot of the trends that have come across from high fashion to streetwear because of his passion for youth culture and going against the norm.

Today i've decided to do some research on him to learn more about his roots and what makes him tick.

Early Life
Simons was born on the 12th January 1968 (Age 40) in Belgium to an army night watchman and a house cleaner. He graduated in Industrial and Furniture Design in 1991 (Age 23) where he often discussed with his peers his fashion inspirations Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela. He initially worked as a furniture designer having interned at the design studio of Walter Van Beirendonck after graduating for 3 years. Van Beirendonck took him to Paris Fashion Week where he saw his first show - Martin Margiela's all-white show in 1991 which inspired him to turn to fashion design.

The Label
Encouraged by Linda Loppa, head of the fashion department at the Antwerp Royal Academy at the time, Simons became a self-trained menswear designer and launched his eponymous label in 1995.

From FW95 to SS97, his collections were shown either in presentations or videos. FW97 saw his first runway show in Paris however it was from SS20 that Simons' work truly entered the spotlight.

SS00 Summa Cum Laude

Summa Cum Laude is latin for "with the highest distinction" and ties into the inspiration behind this collection - students and the gabber club scene. The infamous Pyramid Bomber from this collection used the logo from gabber DJ conglomerate Rotterdam Terror Corps, who were infamous for their raves throughout the '90s. 




Those who know me know that i don't generally like electronic music, but i still decided to check out the Rotterdam Terror Corps on youtube to see if my mind could be changed. It couldn't. While i understand the cultural significance of this bomber, i feel like it was a "you had to be there" kind of moment. I'd feel hypocritical if i copped this piece, almost like somebody who wore a band t-shirt without actually listening to the band. This isn't a grail for me but i appreciate the aesthetics of the logo and oversized fit of the bomber.

AW01 Riot Riot Riot

This collection was inspired by the theme of rebellion and contained a lot of military influences. It was also presented in an abandoned warehouse, very cool. Perhaps the most iconic grail to come out of this collection is the camo MA-1 which is adorned with photos of missing Manic Street Preachers lyricist and guitarist Richard James Richey Edwards.



Similar to The Pyramid bomber, i would feel hypocrital wearing this bomber as somebody who wasn't all that into Welsh rock music. Alternatively Kanye did wear this bomber and i feel like he wouldn't know too much about Welsh rock music so that kinda gives it the green light. I would prefer this one over The Pyramid design as the camo sets it apart but seeing as it was last listed at $25K, i don't think this is one that i'd be able to afford too soon.

AW02 Virginia Creeper

This collection is inspired by our relationship with nature and had a lot of earthy tones and "camp" like designs. The show was presented in a tree-lined like forest. Perhaps the most sought after piece from Virginia Creeper is the infamous Nebraska sweatshirt, collegiate-style crewnecks featuring a washed and hand-distressed look that are increasingly difficult to track down.



I've always had an issue with buying something that's been distressed. Call it the Asian in me but this just looks like a college sweatshirt with holes in it. A no from me dawg.

SS03 Consumed

This collection is inspired by militarism and fetishism with a mix of everything from black mesh to patent leather while the graphic tees and spray paint from the presentation give it a decidedly street feeling.


This bomber has gotta be a grail for me like most people in the world but at $50k, this is definitely the definition of unobtainable.

AW03 Closer

This collection is the love child between Raf Simons and Peter Saville as he was given access to the album archives of New Order, an English rock band.


You can probably tell now that Simons has a lot of references to music in his collections, all of which i'm not privy to because i'm a millenial brought up on hip hop and neo soul. I've honestly never heard of New Order but i find the graphics and silhouette of the parka charming. A little more affordable at $10K but still not a cop for me.

AW05 History of My World

History of My World represented a bit of a pivot from the streetwear-oriented collections that Simons had presented previously with a focus on tailoring much like the very beginning of his career as a designer. In terms of iconic pieces, the Poltergeist capsule immediately jumps to mind. The items were not featured on the runway, but included crewneck sweaters and fishtail parkas with the now-familiar graphic patchwork treatment.



I had a chance to cop this exact sweater for $2K but decided against it as the fit seemed to be a little oversized and the themes were well... dark. I don't think i'm edgy enough to pull off this look but i can see how it would fit into Simons' broody aesthetic.
AW14 Sterling Ruby

 After several years at the helm of Dior, the collection represented a shift in focus back towards his eponymous label. Notably, the collection was the true collaborative result of Simons and longtime friend and artist Sterling Ruby. 



Now this collection is something that i can get behind. After watching the film Dior and I, I was completely blown away by the colours and textures Simons used in his dresses which he worked on with Sterling Ruby. His "return to fashion" saw lots of bright colours and interesting textures plastered over a black canvas and really brought himself back into the spotlight. Will be doing more research on this to cop a piece from this collection!



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