Alexander McQueen

Last weekend i saw McQueen at the Palace.

When i first heard about the documentary on an online forum, i thought this would be a good opportunity to immerse myself in learning about one of the most influential designers of our time. I've often thought that it would be good for me to learn about the designers i'm interested in through film. It allows me to concentrate solely on the designer and provides me with an intimate personal account of their experiences.

The first fashion documentary i've seen was "Dior and I" which gave an account of Raf Simons and his time at Christian Dior. I thoroughly enjoyed the film and had a newfound appreciation for his work in womenswear and collaboration with Sterling Ruby in creating dresses with incredibly vibrant print and a setting that would go down in Dior history as one of the best shows of the decade. But i've already made a post about that, so onto McQueen.

Alexander McQueen was born on 17 March 1969 in London and grew up in a council flat. He served an apprenticeship with Savile Row tailors where he earned a reputation in the fashion world as an expert in creating an impeccably tailored look. He received his master's degree in fashion design and his 1992 (Age 23) graduation collection was bought in its entirety by influential fashion stylist Isabella Blow. She paved the way for McQueen using her unique style and contacts to help him and in many ways, was his mentor.

McQueen's early runway collections developed his reputation for controversy and shock tactics and included a 1995 collection titled "Highland Rape". It was McQueen's take on the 18th century Jacobite rebellion which was basically genocide during the war between the Scottish and English.


Naturally, the collection was met with backlash from the media but McQueen defended himself by saying that he was drawing attention to issues that were uncomfortable to touch on but important to discuss. He also wanted to empower women by sending his models down the runway with a tenacious demeanour despite their tattered garments. He wanted his collection to prompt an emotional response from his audience. As a relatively conservative person, this collection definitely makes me feel uncomfortable and i really struggle with viewing this as an artistic piece let alone a fashion collection.

Upon his appointment at Givenchy, McQueen created a relatively unsuccessful debut collection as he was toning down his artistic style but in 2009, he completed one of his most famous runway shows which saw a single model rotating on a revolving section of the catwalk in a strapless white dress whilst being sprayed by two robotic guns. I believe the model was also a dancer, which along with the music and setting was an incredibly graceful presentation part fashion, part performance art. That being said though, i was more keen on the performance aspect over the design of the actual dress.


Another one of McQueen''s most celebrated runway shows was his 2001 collection, VOSS. The centre piece tableau that dominated the room was an enormous glass box but because the room outside the box was lit while the inside of the box was unlit, the glass walls appeared as large mirrors so that the seated audience only saw their own reflection. After an hour, lights came on inside the enormous glass case and revealed the interior to be filled with moths and at the centre, a naked model on a chaise lounge with her face obscured by a gas mask. The glass walls then fell away and smashed on the ground.


Again in line with most of my thoughts on McQueen, i appreciate this presentation more for the setting and performance art over the fashion itself. I love that the bandages on the models' heads were incorporated into the presentation in line with the padded cell theme but also to show that people who are sick are beautiful too.

 McQueen's final collection before his suicide was in 2010 "Plato's Atlantis" inspired by his scuba diving in the Maldives.


Plato's Atlantis is definitely my favourite out of all of McQueen's collections. The colours and cuts in this collection are out of this world. Pictured above is an amazing drop v ruffle dress with open sleeves highlighted by 3 dimensional colours and amazing textures and materials. I love everything about this presentation including the setting, fashion and theming. The hairstyles are kind of out there but hey, it's McQueen.

Alexander McQueen faced many demons over his lifetime. He did his best to channel all of his emotions into his work but unfortunately the demons won. Plato's Atlantis is a collection that i won't forget too soon. Rest in Peace Alexander McQueen.

















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